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Rigging a Cyclone 13

This is the start of a rough draft of instructions on how to rig a Cyclone 13. These are based on a couple season's experience sailing a Cyclone 13, so caveat lector. I will gradually, probably very gradually, elaborate on the instructions and add illustrations. Corrections and suggestions are welcome

secured on trailer Here's my boat, secured for trailering.

hiking strap, fore connection If you need to install the hiking strap, loosen the clips, thread the ends of the hiking strap behind the clips, and refasten the clips.

hiking strap, aft connection At the transom, the fold in the middle of the strap goes under and through the rear slot, then over and down into the front slot, then is pulled snug.

upper and lower mast Assemble the mast by sliding the lower and upper parts of the mast together.

halyard and forestay secured to mast Before stepping the mast, secure the halyard and forestay.

mast stepped Step the mast.
forestay Shackle the forestay to the bow.
gooseneck Check if the screws securing the gooseneck have come loose.
insert gooseneck Attach the boom by inserting the gooseneck into the slot on the mast and lowering until snug.

Gabor Karafiath writes

The boom is longer than it needs to be. This allowed some space for a piece of foam padding (split pipe insulation) to be fitted at the end with nylon ties. This keeps the aft fiberglass from getting marred.
Outhaul ... uncleated.
boom vang Boom vang, per photo.

(That's the daggerboard being held behind the boom vang rigging to provide contrast.)

boom vang line cleated Bitter end of boomvang line through a side cam cleat the center cam cleat. After several sailing seasons and taking the photo, I received this more detailed diagram [large file], courtesy of Jack Vrins, and learned the ends of the Cunningham are to run through the left and right cam cleats, and the boom vang line through the center cam cleat above the cuddy door.

On the other hand, Gabor Karafiath writes

I exchanged the control positions for the vang and the downhaul.The vang now goes to either side and is an 8 to 1 purchase. The downhaul to the middle with a 4 to 1 purchase. You will play the vang a lot more than the downhaul. The vang is attached with inexpensive stainless steel hooks from Annapolis Performance Sailing. The original shackles are sure to bring on a bad day just waiting to happen when you lose the pin.

Traveler ...

mainsheet Main sheet per the photo.

(Again, that's the daggerboard being held behind the boom vang rigging to provide contrast.)

Fasten tiller to rudder.
rudder Attach the rudder to the stern. If you have the optional beaching rudder, raise it.

Insert the drain plug. Have several spares handy. If you need more drain plugs, the Cyclone 13 can use the smaller Laser drain plug.

daggerboard Insert the daggerboard into the trunk.

Secure the daggerboard with a line tied through the handle slot at one end and to the mainsheet block at the other.

Gabor Karafiath writes

I get water in the boat through the daggerboard. Just splash. The centerboard cap in the photos [top] [side] is from 3/4 inch Cedar with a kerf cut on the inside to help it bend. I let the wood soak overnight before screwing it all together. There is a white foam insulation strip on the bottom of the wood. This arrangement minimizes the splash, although I still get some water.
Tie the cunningham to the lower grommet on the tack of the mainsail.
Shackle the head of the mainsail to the halyard and insert the head of the mainsail up into the track in the mast.
Attach the clew of the mainsail to the outhaul.
Insert the tack of the mainsail down into the track on the mast.
Run the cunningham through one of the blocks. If you have the book vang line through a side cam cleat, start the cunningham through the block at the base of the mast on the same side of the boat. Then run the line throught the upper grommet in the tack of the mainsail, through the other block at the base of the mast, and through the cam cleat on that side. Run the cunningham through the upper grommet on the tack of the mainsail. Each end runs through the small blocks on either side of vang block, and then run through the cam cleats on both sides at the front of the cockpit.

Eric Duris has used a snap shackle between the hole in the gooseneck casting and the lower sail grommet.

Tie a bowline to the deadeye at the bow. I suggest using a bowline knot.
Put on your personal floatation device.
Check that the mainsheet is uncleated.
Double-check that drain plug is in place.
Tie bowline to the dock.
Launch.
If you have the optional beaching rudder, lower it now.
Lower the daggerboard for your anticipated point of sail.
Hoist the mainsail and secure the halyard.

Gabor Karafiath modified the halyard lock to make hoisting and lowering the sail easier, especially on the water.

The new arrangement shown in the photo uses a Holt-Allen fitting available from Annapolis Performance Sailing. The new fitting has a very gentle ramp and a shallow depth hook portion. I relocated the L shaped keyhole bracket a few inches further down the mast to act as a guide and keeper for the halyard. The new arrangement works like a charm. The wire is guided onto the ramp during up haul very easily. I filed the corner between the slot and hole on the keyhole fitting to encourage the wire guiding function.
Cast off, and coil the bowline.



Hypertext by Terrence Berres
Revised August 26, 2006.

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