Tio Pepe is best known as a brand of sherry, but it has founded or lent its name to a fast food outlet Tio Pepe Tapaditos. It must cater to tourists; there were Spanish and English menus listing the over 100 selections. We ordered a combo of one tapas, two tapaditos, and a beverage, for E5.95 each.
Anticipating we won't be out at midnight, we stop at a grocery and buy some snacks, Freixenet and Mahou.
On the way back to the hotel, we pass the Basilica Pontifical de San Miguel. It served as Madrid's temporary cathedral during the many decades until the dedication of the current cathedral. The bells were ringing for the Sunday vigil service, so we went in. The Basilica is now operated by Opus Dei, and among the statues is one of St. Josemaria Escriva. I calculated seating capacity at about 400. Per World History on Spain,
Catholics, 81 percent. Two-thirds responding to a 2002 survey said they rarely or never attend services.
There were maybe 100 for that Mass, mostly old, but maybe a third in their 20s or 30s. The priest entered from the side. There was no music or singing or lectors. We were through the Introductory Rites in two minutes.
Even in an Opus Dei church in Madrid, there wasn't a consensus on when to stand, sit or kneel, so congratulations to professional liturgists worldwide.
Confessions were heard by two priests near the entrance throughout mass. One penitent's sins were cracking up the confessor near us. There were no ushers. Little sacks were draped over the backs of a few pews, and these were passed back for offerings, then members of the congregation took them up.
Communicants knelt at the rail. Father ran out of hosts with two of us left, and went behind the high altar. The reserved hosts apparently are in a combination vault; it seemed like about five minutes before he came back out. I received in the hand and, though I didn't hesitate, Father had a "Are you going to eat That or what?" look until I consumed the host.
The Mass was ended in 35 minutes, but then most of the congregation lined up to kiss the Baby Jesus statue from the creche, per a seasonal custom of which we were unaware.
A new musician at the Plaza Oriente was quiet; perhaps his plan was to demand contributions or else he'll play the accordian.
Back at the hotel, Spanish television was showing a sketch comedy program. They did a mock quiz show. Translating some,
In abecedario [Spanish for the alphabet], what is the third letter?
A. E
B. C
C. B
D. I
Even in Spanish, it was "Who's on first?" funny, since C is B., B is C., E is the third letter of the word abecedario, etc. There was also a bit on "President Bush", but it was slapstick, rather than picking on his mannerisms or his Spanish.
Later that night, they showed That's Entertainment. It was dubbed for the narratives, but not the musical numbers. It struck me that maybe Hollywood stopped making this kind of musical because of showmanship; stop while the audience will still wish there was more.
The French channel had a presidential address. Since I don't understand French, I noticed he would lean to one side, then the other, back and forth, as he spoke; Jacques' Chirockin' New Years Eve.
Then back on a Spanish channel was the live feed from the Puerta del Sol as the clock struck midnight. The local custom is to eat a grape with each of the twelve chimes of midnight and, if you don't choke to death, it's good luck for each month of the year.
¶ 1/14/2006 02:16:00 PM
